ZDDWhat?

Any search on the Internet today with regard to oil additives will eventually bring up the supposed problem that there is a lack of anti-wear additive called zinc dialkyl-dithiophosphate (shortened to ZDDP and showing up as the elements zinc and phosphorus ) in the new oils. People are worried the lack of ZDDP is causing the destruction of many older flat-tappet engines.

This first part of the problem seems to stem from an EPA mandate that all oil companies either reduce or eliminate ZDDP from their oils. While I’m sure the EPA mandates a lot of things, if they are telling the oil companies to get rid of this additive in their oils, the oil companies certainly aren’t listening.

Any automotive engine oil sample you send will have both zinc and phosphorus in it and at fairly high levels (anywhere from 500 to 1,000 ppm and often times a lot more). But is the Zn and P in the form of ZDDP? Are there other compounds that could leave Zn and P in the oil? So the first part of this issue isn’t really an issue at all, and that brings up the second part of the issue.

Is a lack of ZDDP really a problem for flat-tappet engines? My first inclination would be to say no, and that’s because 99% of all piston aircraft engines don’t use that additive in their oil.

Most aircraft engines are air-cooled, so they tend to run hot. Due to this, they require the use of an ashless oil. That simply means that when the oil burns, it must burn completely and not leave any ash behind. Aircraft engines are mostly flat-tappet engines and they seem to get along just fine without ZDDP. So is the second part of the problem really a problem?

I’m a mechanical engineer by training, and when I was in school, we learned the best way to answer that would be to follow the scientific method.

The Scientific Method

If you made it this far, then I guess you weren’t tired when you started reading this because the mere mention of the scientific method has been known to cause many a high school and collage kid to nod off almost immediately. For those who don’t remember what that method is, here’s quick refresher. But wait, before you continue reading, go get a cup of coffee because I don’t want to lose any of you.

Define the question
Gather information and resources (observe)
Form hypothesis
Perform experiment and collect data
Analyze data
Interpret data and draw conclusions that serve as a starting point for new hypothesis
Publish results
Retest (frequently done by other scientists)

1. Define the question: Is the lack of ZDDP a problem?

Apparently, the lack of ZDDP in the oil is causing the demise of older engines that still use flat tappets because without that anti-wear additive present, the camshaft lobes and tappets grind down to nothing, especially when the engine is brand new.

The thing is, this doesn’t necessarily happen to all of the camshaft lobes, just a select few. The magazine Popular Mechanics recently did an article on this and they showed a picture of a camshaft with one lobe worn down to nothing. I have my doubts about this because if there really was a problem with the oil, wouldn’t it affect all of the camshaft lobes and not just one? I don’t pretend to know all there is to know about camshaft design and surface hardness, but I know enough to reason that all of the lobes and tappets are lubricated by oil, and if the oil was indeed substandard, then wouldn’t it affect all of the lobes the same way?

Figure 1: Aeroshell W65

This brings us to our next point: What would happen if you ran an oil that didn’t have any ZDDP in it at all? If that additive is so important, wouldn’t the complete lack of it cause camshafts to self destruct in a short period of time? I don’t think so, because aircraft engines do it all the time and the good majority of those last to 2,000 hours and well beyond.

2. Gather information and resources (observe)

Not much to do here. I did have to order some oil that didn’t contain ZDDP. That was Aeroshell W65 (see Figure 1). It’s a 30W oil commonly used by aircraft engines during colder months. That viscosity is close to the 10W/30 (at 210ºF) that I’ve run since the rebuild. It’s important to note that while this oil doesn’t contain any additives that we read, it is known as an ashless dispersant oil, so there are some additives in there.

3. Form hypothesis: The lack of ZDDP isn’t a problem at all

Never did understand this part. Isn’t it the same as define the question? Maybe I was asleep at the time. In any case, here is goes. I don’t think the lack of ZDDP is a problem at all, based on all of the normal looking aircraft engines we analyze that do not run that additive.

4. Perform experiment and collect data: My own engine

Since this is my experiment, I decided to use my own engine at a guinea pig. Back in 2004 I rebuilt the GM 350 engine in my 1984 Check ¾ ton pick-up truck. The rebuilding process didn’t quite go as planned but the engine has been running well since then and since it has flat tappets, I thought it would be a good engine to test. I control the operating conditions and another plus is that if the engine decides to explode, I’m the only one to blame and I won’t sue myself for damages, though there may be some lawyers who would take that case.

I changed oil originally back in February of 2008. Here is the report on the oil that I took out (see Figure 2). Not the best data, especially at lead, from bearings, but at least it’s consistent.

Figure 2: The original oil was Havoline 10W/30

5. Analyze data

That was the easy part. I’ve been looking at oil reports every afternoon since 1997, and I don’t have to pay for the samples.

6. Interpret data and draw conclusions that serve as a starting point for a new hypothesis

After 16 months and 1,943 miles I decided it was time to change the oil. You can see the results in Figure 3. At first glance it would seem that the engine’s steel parts didn’t really agree with the new oil. Iron went up to 37 ppm, which isn’t really a problem level, but more than I had been seeing.

Figure 3: The first run on Aeroshell W65

However, it’s also important to note that this was the longest I had run the oil since the rebuild, both in time and mileage. Also, the engine doesn’t have any emission controls (don’t tell the EPA) and had an open breather coming off one of the valve covers.

So with it being exposed to the atmosphere, there is always a chance for rust to form on the parts, and that could account for the increase in iron. Lead was still excessive, but that didn’t really change, and nothing else unusual was present.

Note that this oil still had some additive in it (molybdenum, calcium, phosphorus, and zinc). These are leftover from the last fill and it turns out for this engine, about 20% of the old oil remains in the engine after an oil change. This is important to note because 20% of the metals are leftover from the last oil fill as well.

But the data from one sample doesn’t make for good science and I still had more Aeroshell to use, so I ran it again. This would help make sure the data was consistent and also make sure the lingering additives from the regular engine oil weren’t affecting my results.

Figure 4: Wear improves!

The second oil was changed on October 30, 2010, after another 16 months and 1,921 miles this time (see Figure 4). At first glance you will notice a nice improvement in wear, especially lead. Does this mean the Aeroshell W65 is actually working better then other oils? Alas, no. When you don’t see in the data is that I took a 675-mile road trip during this oil run and I strongly suspect that highway trip is the reason for the improved wear, rather than any miraculous improvement due to Aeroshell.

This is an important fact to think about whenever you are looking at someone else’s oil report. Driving conditions can have a large effect on the data and unless you know what those conditions are, it is very easy to draw the wrong conclusions.

The conclusion I can draw is that no, my engine did not self-destruct running this oil. I didn’t actually visually inspect the camshaft, before or after this test, so I don’t know how much, if any, actual wear occurred in that area. So the test isn’t perfect in that regard, but I can say the engine is still running just fine.

So do we have a starting point for a new hypothesis now? Yes. Would my engine be okay if I had used this oil during break-in? Maybe, but we’ll won’t know until I rebuild another engine. When I do, I plan on use another oil that’s popular in the aircraft community: straight mineral oil with no additive whatsoever. Probably about 80% to 90% of the aircraft engines are broken in on this type of oil and they seem to do fine.

Are there any other new hypotheses? I’m sure there will be many that come by and most of them will center on how this test is invalid for some reason or another. And in response to that I would refer to section 8 of the scientific method and see what happens if you have the balls!

7. Publish results: That’s what you are reading

Not much to talk about here, and that brings us to our last point on the scientific method

8. Retest (frequently done by other scientists)

In this case, the other scientists are you and while I’m not suggesting any of you run Aeroshell in your automotive engines, you can use oil analysis to help solve questions you may have. Is synthetic oil really better than petroleum oil? Is that additive you’re using really helping? Feel free to draw up your own hypothesis and run your own tests. Don’t just buy an oil or additive, start using it, and then never stop just because the engine is running just fine. And by all means, don’t just take the word of the people who make oil and additives. Be objective and run some testing. I think you’ll be surprised by the results.

By Ryan Stark|2024-09-19T09:07:44-04:002024|Articles, Gas/Diesel Engine, Marine|Comments Off

To All the Oils I’ve Loved Before

I get asked on a regular basis what type of oil is the best, and we typically don’t give out recommendations because we see very little difference between brands. But that doesn’t mean I don’t have favorites. For me, there is a lot more that goes into picking a favorite oil than just how well the engine wears while it’s in use.

One factor is what Dad used. I can remember “helping” change oil with him back in the ’70s when the oil cans were round and you had to jab a separate spout into the can just to pour the oil out. Back then he was a Pennzoil man and I didn’t think to question why. So when I started buying my own oil and changing it, I thought about using Pennzoil, but being a bit of a rebel in my teenage years, I wasn’t going to do everything like Dad did.

I started out liking Texaco Havoline. It came in a cool black bottle and Texas was far away from Indiana so the oil was kind of exotic. I used it for years and my engine never blew up so it mast be good oil right?

Then I found Castrol GTX. Their white bottle wasn’t all that special, but they did offer a free NFL hat if you bought a case. That was an excellent reason to switch in my mind, and I still wear my Detroit Lions had with pride. (Yes, that’s right, I’m a Lions fan, and mark my words, they will win it all someday! If the Saints can win it, there’s always hope for the Lions.)

My engine ran for years on Castrol and never blew up, so that must be good oil right? Then Castrol quit offering hats, so it was time to switch, and I decided to try Quaker State. Made from sweet Pennsylvania crude, I’m sure. They had a cool green bottle and my engine never blew up using it, so it’s good oil.

But I was never completely sold on Quaker State, and when I found Wolf’s Head oil, I know it was time for a change. I’m not sure, but I suspect it’s made from the first pressing of dead wolves’ heads, and while the animal lovers might not approve, it’s better than Baby Seal Head oil, so I didn’t feel too bad running it. That oil seems to work just fine, my engine never blew up using it, but it was kind of out of the way for me to buy it, so I switched again.

This time I cheaped out and went with Meijer oil. For those who don’t know, Meijer is a big superstore like Wal-Mart, and after running a test on it, it turned out to have the exact same additive package as Castrol, my former favorite, so I was sold.

Until this point I had steered clear of non-name brand oils (their bottles aren’t very pleasing to the eye), but then I realized that big chain stores don’t really make oil, they just buy it from a major oil company and repackage it as their own. This revelation sold my father on Wal-Mart’s Super Tech oil and almost sold me on Meijer forever, but then my wife started doing all the shopping. I never made it to Meijer anymore, so once again it was time to switch.

Since then I have never really settled on one brand. Working at an oil lab, I’m interested to see what different oils people are using, so I switch on a regular basis and I mostly go with what’s on sale. Valvoline, Pennzoil, Mobil, it doesn’t really matter. I’m too cheap to go with synthetics, but I can still be swayed by a cool-looking bottle every now and then. And given my fondness for a low price, I recently found a new favorite oil.

All kidding aside, we really don’t care what oil you use. Some guys swear by this oil or that oil, but they all do the same thing and we honestly don’t see any appreciable difference in wear when people switch brands. We think oil is oil, and we’re sticking with it.

By Ryan Stark|2024-09-19T09:08:28-04:002023|Articles, Gas/Diesel Engine, Marine|Comments Off

The Lower Unit Blues

I wouldn’t consider myself a nautical man, though growing up fairly close to a lot of really nice lakes, I was able to go fishing, tubing, and water skiing every now and then. These are all things I still enjoy though this type of hobby generally requires a boat. My grandfather gave me a fishing boat many years ago and while that doesn’t need much maintenance, I do use my step-mother Kathy’s boat once or twice a summer and that’s a different story.

The boat & its lower unit

The boat is a 1994 Starcraft 1700 with a 90 HP Mercury 2-stroke engine. It’s large enough to carry six people comfortably and pull a tube around the lake. She bought the boat used in 2016 and it had obviously not seen a whole lot use or maintenance in the preceding years, so I decided to help out with what little maintenance I could, which basically involved changing the oil in the lower unit.

Now for those of you who are even less nautical than me, the lower unit is a gear box that transmits power from the engine to the propeller. Technically, it can be called a transmission, but that doesn’t really apply because it only has two gears—forward and reverse—and there isn’t any sort of complicated clutching system involved to change the gears. It’s basically a gear box, which tends to be extremely reliable and would have a super long life if it wasn’t for the environment in which it has to operate—underwater.

The water blues

As you might have guessed, water contamination is a major problem with these units and when I changed the oil in Kathy’s boat, I could tell that water was getting in.

Now, you don’t have to have worked at an oil lab for 20+ years to know what serious water contamination looks like. Think milkshake, with the main color being whatever the color of the oil was to start with. When an oil with red dye gets water in it, it tends to look like strawberry milkshake. If the oil starts out blue, you end up with a blueberry milkshake. Start with brown oil and you get chocolate.

So the very first time I changed it, I grabbed a sample as the oil was draining out to see how bad the water contamination was (see Figure 1).

Oil from the lower unit, showing a clear separation between the oil and a layer of water contamination

Figure 1: Not good

Here at the lab, even though an oil might obviously have water in it, we don’t just use the color to make that call; we use an actual ASTM method to identify water. The test is called the “crackle test.”

For that, you drop a small amount of oil onto something hot (400°F) like a brass cup, and if the oil sizzles/crackles, then yes you have water. (We get the percentage from the insolubles test but that’s another matter.) If you are crunched for time and can’t send your oil in to us, you can actually do this test at home in your kitchen using an old pan. Just don’t cook up a batch of eggs on it afterwards.

The good thing about lower units is, if you keep the oil changed and no water is getting in, they will last for a very long time. And if water is getting in, frequent oil changes will keep any damage to a minimum. However, if you neglect one that does have water leaking in, the water will cause the steel parts to rust and that will allow for all kinds of bad things to happen. In my situation, I knew the lower unit in Kathy’s boat was letting water in and that something should have been done about it, but life got in the way.

Live & learn (and hopefully don’t wreck)

So this year, when I went to try to put it in the lake I got quite the surprise when I found it the motor would not shift out of forward. Of course, I didn’t know this until I was trying to back the boat away from the boat trailer at the ramp. Needless to say, I was very confused as to why the boat was going forward when I had it in reverse, and Kathy was even more confused (and profane) when she thought the boat was going to end up in the bed of her truck. I did start the engine prior to heading to the lake and it was running like a champ. I just didn’t think to check to see if the motor would go into reverse, or even shift at all. Live and learn.

So now the lower unit is in a partial state of disassembly in my garage, and let me tell you—nothing is a sadder sight in the middle of boating season. I find myself struggling with shame and regret about not having changed oil in it sooner, or better yet, just fixed the seal that was letting water in in the first place. My only hope is that you don’t let the same thing happen to you. Change that lower unit oil and sleep easy at night. Meanwhile, I’ll be learning the real meaning of the word boat – Bust Out Another Thousand!

By Ryan Stark|2024-06-04T14:55:42-04:002023|Articles, Marine|Comments Off

How Often Should You Change Your Oil?

Change is inevitable, right? But not as inevitable as it used to be, at least for your engine oil. When it comes to the questions we get every day, right up there with “What kind of oil should I use?” is “How often should I change my oil?” Happily, the answer for most people is: Not as often as you used to.

What other people will tell you

Back in the day, everyone knew you changed your oil at 3,000 miles or three months, whichever comes first. Wait, did I say back in the day? Lots of places still tell you that’s how often to change it, and not surprisingly, the places you’re hearing this are oil change places that make money from you coming in regularly. We’re here to help cut through the noise, and hopefully you’ll believe us because hey, we’ve got science on our side. The answer to how often you need to change your oil is: It’s different for everybody.

Owner’s manual

Most cars and trucks (motorcycles, boats, etc.) have guidelines listed in the owner’s manual that outline certain driving conditions and how often to change the oil.

The problem is, sometimes the conditions they outline as “severe” are laughable. We’ve seen manuals that say if you’re doing primarily city driving, that’s severe. Call me silly, but I’d say “severe” should count as something that’s out of the ordinary for most people. Most people drive to work and back. Most people drive to the store, go to school, take the kids to school, whatever.

Severe operation, on the other hand, could legitimately be something like lots of operation on dusty roads, towing constantly, driving really fast in a really hot or really cold place, or driving up and down mountain passes. Under these conditions, we could see needing to change the oil more often. But again, it really is a case-by-case thing. City driving for me, in Fort Wayne, Indiana, is different from city driving in LA.

The point is, despite the best intentions of the people who write the guidelines, how often you should change your oil really depends on you, your engine, how you drive, and where you drive. One caveat: As long as your engine is under warranty, you should change however often the manufacturer says to. That way if something goes wrong, they can’t blame you for lack of maintenance.

OLM

Most new engines also come with an oil life monitor to tell you when to change the oil. This is a good system, and even if it’s not 100% accurate all the time, it’s better than the 3,000 miles or three months system.

Different oil life monitors take different things into account. We’ve been told that certain German automakers changed from basing theirs on variables such as cold starts and RPMs to basically counting down the amount of fuel used. Some have a sensor in the oil that estimates particulates in the oil. Some monitors seem to give better recommendations the longer you use them. All this is fine and it’s better than nothing, but there’s also oil analysis. Guess which method we like best for determining how often you should change the oil?

What we look at

When you send in a sample, we ask on the oil slip if you’re interested in extended oil use. What we want to know is, do you want to run your oil longer than you currently are? We have found that people are often changing their oil too soon. As you know there is not one oil-change interval that’s perfect for everyone, so what do we take into account when we do recommend longer oil changes?

Metal

If you’ve seen our report, you know that we keep a database of all different engine types. We average their wear and then compare that to your sample to see what’s reading high, what’s normal, and what’s better than most. We like it when you send along notes. The more you tell us about how you’re driving or any specific conditions that might affect the sample, the better the recommendation we can give you.

If wear is above average, we always look for reasons that might explain why. For example, say your metals are generally higher than average but you’re also running your oil longer than average. We take that into account and give you an estimate on how much longer we think you can go for the next oil change.

We don’t like to take too big of a leap. We wouldn’t, for example, tell you to go from 5,000 to 10,000 miles because you might send in a 10,000-mile sample and have lots of wear, and we wouldn’t know where the tipping point was. But we might tell you to go 7,500 miles next, and if things look good at that point, to go longer after that.

Some people automatically think having more wear than average is bad, but that’s not necessarily so. If there’s a good reason for the wear, and if there’s not so much metal that it’s making the oil itself abrasive, we’re happy to let a little extra metal ride. The question is, are you okay with it? In the end our recommendation is just our opinion, and you should do whatever you’re comfortable with.

Sometimes we suspect a problem and we’ll recommend a shorter oil change. Obviously shorter oil changes don’t fix a problem if one exists, but they do let you monitor the problem more closely and get the extra metal out of the system. Once a lot of wear builds up, the oil itself can become abrasive, which causes even more wear. It’s a cycle to avoid.

Contamination

We also look at any contamination that might be present in the oil. Obviously no contamination is the best, but your engine can tolerate small amounts of fuel and (sometimes) moisture without it being a serious problem.

Fuel is actually a very common contaminant. It mainly comes from normal operation and idling, and as long as it’s not causing any wear problems, we usually would recommend a longer oil run even with fuel present. But if fuel persists or the trend is one of increasing fuel with each oil change, we’d probably recommend cutting back on your oil changes for the reasons outlined above.

We don’t see water very often because modern engines are closed up tight. But we do see antifreeze, and when it’s present we almost always recommend changing the oil more often. Antifreeze destroys the oil’s ability to lubricate parts, which is why it starts causing poor wear so soon (usually bearing wear).

We also look at how oxidized the oil is with the insolubles test. Oil oxidation happens normally and for the most part, your oil filter removes the oxidized solids from the system just fine.

Occasionally something (excessive heat, contamination) causes the oil to oxidize faster than usual and the oil filter can’t keep up. In this case we would also recommend a shorter oil change, at least until you can figure out why it’s happening.

The insolubles test also helps us determine soot problems for diesel engines. If soot is excessive but everything else looks okay, we might suggest trying a longer run. Or if there is ring wear and other signs of poor combustion, we would probably tell you to cut back.

Operation

How you drive is another factor we take into account when we suggest your next oil change interval. If you and I both have the exact same Subaru engine except you go to the track regularly and all I do is drive to work and the store, then you might get a different recommendation than me. Or maybe you won’t — if your engine looks good and it’s faring well under the racing conditions, we might be running the same oil changes.

Or, if someone tells us their commute is a long highway drive every day, that person may be able to go a lot longer on their oil than someone with the same engine who drives two miles each way to work and back every day. It’s all in the numbers. The numbers don’t lie!

What about the oil?

Notice what we have not said we take into account: the brand you’re using and whether it’s synthetic or petroleum oil. When Jim started this company back in 1985 he came up with a line he liked to use: Oil is oil. We still stand by that today. The oil guys would have you believe otherwise, but brand really does not seem to make a difference in how your engine wears, or how often you can change your oil.

Well, okay, if you were using some guy’s oil that he “recycled” in the back of his garage from emptied-out oil pans that he filtered with a piece of cheesecloth, we might say in that case brand does matter. But as long as you’re using an API-certified oil, your engine probably isn’t going to care what you use. We like synthetics and we like conventional oil. In the end, what you use and how often you change your oil is completely your choice. We’ll give you our recommendation and you can do whatever you want with it. If you want to run longer on the oil despite having high wear, that’s totally fine. And if you have great numbers and you like changing at 3,000 miles, that’s perfectly fine too. It’s your engine, your money, and your life: change it when you want!

By Ryan Stark|2024-09-19T09:19:01-04:002023|Articles, Gas/Diesel Engine, Marine|Comments Off

How Often Should I Sample?

One of the most common questions we get asked is, “How often should I send in a sample?” and this is one that I tend to struggle with answering.

The businessman in me says at every oil change regardless, and while you’re at it, check your transmission fluid, differential fluid, and your wife’s/husband’s car. And don’t forget any air compressors, lawn mowers, wood splitters, etc. you may own. And your neighbor’s car was smoking a bit last time you saw it drive past, better check that too.

Unfortunately, before I start talking, my “realist” side kicks in and I usually say something like once a year, after you have some good trends established. But even that answer doesn’t always apply. What if you don’t drive your vehicle very often, or at all? Is it really necessary to test the oil once a year? The answer to that is once again not really. Though if you think you might have a problem developing, then it could be a good idea to sample more often than you normally would.

Old oil

We recently had a customer send in a sample of oil that was in an engine for 10 years and had not been run at all in more than 5 years — and amazingly enough wear metals were virtually identical to what we were seeing when he last sampled 10 years ago.

The only significant difference was at insolubles. These had gone from 0.2% to 0.0% after the 5 years of sitting. We figured the reason for this was gravity. All normal engine oils contain dispersant additives, and their function is to hold dirt and solids in suspension so they can be filtered out. Do they work? Absolutely, but asking them to work for a full five years is a little much. The good news is that the additives are still in the oil, so once the engine starts up and sees some use, those solids should be picked up and dispersed again.

So, if we can say with good certainty that the oil itself won’t go bad just sitting in an engine, you might wonder why it needs to be changed at all? The answer to that is contamination.

Contamination problems

Engine oil has maybe the hardest life of any oil application out there. Not only does it see frequent temperature swings of 150° to 200°F (65° to 90°C), but it will also get contaminated with fuel blow-by and a little atmospheric water as well.

Ideally the fuel and water will boil out once the oil gets up to operating temperature, but that contamination will add up over time and eventually cause the oil to start to oxidize. If you can pinpoint exactly when the oil will oxidize enough that it will start to affect wear or cause the oil’s viscosity to change, that’s the point at which you want to change the oil. If you test your oil on a regular basis, you can start to identify that point and that’s one of the reasons why we’re here.

So when is the best time to get a sample? The answer to that is: it depends.

Best time to sample?

If you just bought a brand-new car, the first oil is factory oil and while that oil will sometimes have an unusual additive package, it’s not that useful for finding a problem, or developing a normal wear trend.

Factory oil is typically loaded with excess metal from wear-in of new parts as well and some silicon from sealers used when the engine was assembled, and this stuff normally takes two or three oil changes to wash out.

So, while these samples aren’t useful as far as trends go, they are useful in finding problems in engines that have been recently rebuilt or had other major work done, and we always recommend testing those from the beginning. This is because if wear metals don’t drop from that initial oil fill, it can be the early indication of a problem.

It’s always a good idea to get a trend going while the engine is running well. A trend consists of three samples. Once we have that established and the engine is running perfectly, then it’s not really necessary to get a sample at each oil change and at that point it’s okay in most cases to go to a once-a-year sampling routine.

Once a year?

You might be wondering why once a year? The reason for that is two-fold. One: A lot of people (including myself) only change their oil once a year. It’s also the only time I crawl under my car and have the hood open. I consider it like an annual inspection and there are been numerous times that I have been on my back waiting for the oil to drain when I noticed another problem like a seeping freeze-plug or a torn CV boot. Two: It’s easy to remember.

However, the once-a-year rule doesn’t always apply. There are many vehicles out there that only see light use (maybe less than 500 miles a year), so not only can they typically skip changing oil on a yearly basis, then don’t need to sample every year.

Another factor is how important the vehicle is to you. If you rely on it for your business, or it’s the only vehicle you have and it’s getting up there in mileage, then sampling at every oil change might be a very good idea.

Engines speak before they fail

We can see problems developing in your engine long before they actually cause a failure, so you normally have some time to do something about any trouble we might spot. Still, like a lot of things in life, the earlier you know about problems the better.

We get as lot of samples from engines that have a known problem, so we test the oil and usually see poor wear, but telling how bad the problem is or how/when it started is hard without trends from when the engine was normal. We do have averages that give us a good idea how an engine should look overall, but they aren’t as valuable as trends when it comes to saying exactly what’s normal for a particular engine and the use it sees.

So there you have it, I’m actually saying you may not need our services as much as you might think. Some of the other business owners out there might call me crazy and I guess they’re right. But please, feel free to sample anytime you like. As you know there is nothing better than getting a glowing oil report on your pride and joy.

By Ryan Stark|2024-09-19T09:34:43-04:002023|Articles, Gas/Diesel Engine, Marine|Comments Off

Space Dust

Here’s a fact. Everything we turn up in analysis of your used oil had to get in there somehow. As obvious as that may appear, I hadn’t really thought about it until I ventured into making my own oil.

I built it up gradually, starting with a 10W base stock that was nothing more than refined mineral oil with nothing added. After running it a specific period and measuring the results, I started adding components, running the same miles, and repeating measurements. Eventually I ended up with a complete package that performed very nicely.

Every time I changed something in the oil, the results were measurable. That led to a low-level Eureka! — an affirmation of something I’d always known but hadn’t given much thought: Everything we find in oil analysis had to get in the oil somehow. What we find in oil was put there by the oil blender, came from the engine, or came from the environment.

There are many factors and variables to consider in how long you can use oil in an engine and in how long an engine will last. The most important of all those variables is keeping the oil, regardless of type, as clean as possible. Your air and oil filtration systems are critical players in accomplishing this mission.

The importance of air filtration

Leaving oil filtration for another article, just how important is air filtration? It is one of the most important factors in long-lived engines and long oil change intervals. It is a variable you can control.

Silicon is everywhere in the environment. We rarely think of it unless we see a dust storm in a desert or watch a farmer’s tractor operating in a cloud of dust, but there is no such thing as clean environmental air. If you let rain drops dry on your car or truck, by the time they dry they will have collected enough dirt to leave spots on your paint.

Dirt exists everywhere because it comes from outer space. Have you ever wondered why the most important tool in archaeology is a shovel? If a team of archaeologists went to study a 2000-year-old humanity site, they probably would have to dig down 30 feet to find what they were looking for. The reason old things are buried so deeply is that the Earth is constantly being showered by extraterrestrial dirt. You can’t escape it, even at high altitudes, and they only way you can prevent it from prematurely wearing out your engine is to collect it in an efficient air filtration system.

Controlling the dirt

I was recently speaking with a pilot about why his engine was wearing so poorly. He told me he liked to pull a little carb heat (in other words, unfiltered air) through his engine once he hit altitude because the air up there wasn’t a problem. Once I looked at his report, I saw his silicon level was quite high. He was wrong about the air up there not being a problem. In fact, there is enough silicon in the air at any altitude to cause poor engine wear. It’s important for any engine to filter the dirt out before it can do damage.

All engines wear and eventually wear out. Assuming a mechanical or contamination event doesn’t cut short an engine’s life, the amount of wear an engine’s parts leave in the oil is predictive of how long that engine will last. One of the most destructive contaminants that get into the oil is excessive silicon. The best wearing (longest lasting) engines we see have air filtration systems that keep silicon to a minimum in the oil. Regardless of the air filtration system manufacturers supplied for your engine, it is up to you to maintain it to perfection. Is your air filter up to snuff?

By Jim Stark|2024-09-19T09:44:18-04:002023|Articles, Gas/Diesel Engine, Marine|Comments Off

What’s the Best Oil Change Interval?

Here’s an interesting question we received recently from Pete, one of our long-time customers:

“Needed to ask you about AMSoil OE synthetic oil. The change interval that is suggested for that oil is whatever the vehicle manufacturer has specified for that particular vehicle. But what have you seen from the TBNs that you have run on that oil? It doesn’t make sense that in my old 01 Maxima it would only be good 3000 miles but in a brand new vehicle it could be good for 10K.”

Pete has a point. Why would the same oil wear out faster just because the manufacturer recommends a shorter oil change interval? If the oil can hold up for 10,000 miles or more in some engines, shouldn’t it be able to do so in any type of engine?

Of course, there are some reasonable explanations that Amsoil (or any oil manufacturer) might give for this. The industry is generally moving towards longer oil change recommendations because modern engines are built to more exacting standards than they were even ten years ago, allowing for improved efficiency and less damage to the oil.

Plus, you might have to adjust the oil change interval in the same exact engine based on whether you’re seeing “severe” duty or not, so it’s probably reasonable to think that some types of engines would just treat the oil a little more harshly, and require a shorter oil run, right?

The cynical side of me, though, says that the real answer to this question probably has more to do with the legal department than the oil’s engineers. Regardless of how good you think your oil is, if you start telling customers they can ignore the original engine manufacturer’s recommendations, you’re probably opening yourself up to some legal headaches that the head office just doesn’t want to deal with.

But true as that may be, it’s not a very good answer for Pete, or the rest of our customers who are just looking for the best advice on how to treat their vehicles. So setting aside specific recommendations for a moment, let’s get to the nut of Pete’s question… Does the life expectancy of the oil change based on what engine it’s used in?

The tale of the TBN

There are several factors that we use to determine if your oil can be run longer, but Pete asked specifically about the TBN, so let’s focus on that for now.

For those who don’t know, the TBN (Total Base Number) measures the amount of active additive remaining in the oil. A typical gasoline-engine oil might have a starting TBN between 6.0 and 8.0, while diesel-use engine oils tend to have higher TBN’s of 11.0 or 12.0, since they have to deal with dirtier, more acidic conditions.

But regardless of where a TBN starts, they all end up in the same place—0.0—if the oil is run too long. Once the TBN is down to zero, it means that the oil is no longer able to neutralize acids produced by the engine. As a general rule of thumb, we usually say that once a TBN gets lower than about 2.0, it would probably be a good idea not to run the oil much longer, to avoid running out of those active acid-neutralizing agents.

To answer Pete’s question about how the TBN of Amsoil OE holds up in different engines, we searched our database to find the recent TBN results we’ve seen from that type of oil. Since the TBN is an optional test, we don’t run it on every sample we see, but customers who use Amsoil tend to be pretty interested in seeing how long they can run their oil, so we have a pretty good representation for that oil type. We plotted nearly 50 samples’ TBN results against the mileage on the oil, and came up with this graph:

The banana-shaped line we’ve drawn approximates the “average” TBN for this type of oil over a given mileage. You can see that the TBN tends to drop quickly at first, but the longer the oil is run, the slower the TBN drops. Of the samples we tested, none of them had a TBN less than 1.5, so even on very long oil change intervals, this Amsoil OE oil tends to retain plenty of active additive.

Also note that the actual test results (the dots) can stray pretty far from that line on either side, so even though the TBN readings tend to follow a particular pattern, there can be a pretty wide deviation in individual test results. Just at a glance, you can easily see that the sample with the highest TBN reading didn’t have the lowest mileage on the oil, nor did the sample with the longest oil run (a whopping 18,500 miles) have the lowest TBN reading. In fact, the lowest TBN came after a fairly middle-of-the-road 8,569-mile oil change interval.

And before we get too hung up on looking at just Amsoil OE, we ran the same analysis for one of the most common oil types we’ve tested, Mobil 1 5W/30, resulting in the following chart:

The graph for Mobil 1 5W/30 covers nearly 5,000 samples with TBNs, and the scale is a little different than the Amsoil OE chart, but you can see that banana-shaped curve that we’ve drawn, approximating the average TBN for a given mileage, is exactly the same as in the Amsoil OE chart. Once again, the highest TBN was not the shortest oil run, and the lowest TBN was not the longest oil run. So even though we have many more TBN data points for Mobil 1 as we do Amsoil OE, the overall trends for TBNs are similar, and would be with just about any type of oil you could name.

What affects the TBN?

So what other factors might be affecting the TBN? To find out, we ranked all the samples according to both mileage and TBN reading, and came up with the best and the worst of the bunch.

One factor that definitely stood out was make-up oil. If you add some fresh oil in between oil changes to top up your oil level, you’re infusing the oil with more active additives, and diluting wear metals and contaminants at the same time. That’s why we often say that you shouldn’t be too upset about adding a quart or two of oil over the course of your regular oil interval (assuming you don’t have a noticeable leak, of course), since that fresh oil might buy you a few thousand extra miles before you have to do a full oil change.

In this case, all of the samples that noted adding a quart of oil or more ranked in the top half of the results, and the Amsoil samples with the most oil added (2.5 and 3 quarts) ranked at numbers 2 and 7, respectively. On the other hand, the overall best-ranked sample, with a TBN of 4.0 after 10,000 miles, didn’t add any oil in that time, according to their oil slip, so make-up oil alone is not the only relevant factor.

Pete’s original question was about manufacturer’s recommended oil change intervals. We don’t have a list of the recommended OCI for every engine we’ve tested, so we’ll have to settle for looking at some other factors, like the age and size of the engine.

For both the Amsoil and the Mobil 1 samples, the age of the engine didn’t seem to make much of a difference. We had engines from the late 90’s and early 2000’s in the top ten percent on both charts, mixed right in with new engines from the last few model years. The total engine mileage was also mixed, with higher-mileage engines ranked right alongside brand new engines in their first few oil changes.

Engine size is one factor that I thought would end up playing a pretty big role, but I wasn’t sure which way it would go. On the one hand, larger engines tend to work harder, so I wondered if the larger 6-cylinder engines and big V8s might burn through the active additive more quickly than smaller engines. On the other hand, 4-cylinder engines also tend to have smaller oil sumps, meaning less total oil volume in the engine, so maybe their active additives get used up sooner.

Mixed results

Turns out there results were pretty mixed as well… there was a bit of a trend for smaller engines to hold a higher TBN for longer oil runs, but there were plenty of larger engines near the top ranks of both lists, and vice versa. Seems like the extra oil in the sump of the larger engines pretty much balances out the extra work they have to do, resulting in a mostly even distribution of engine sizes across the rankings in both charts.

So what does all this tell us? Well, at least as far as the TBNs go, it doesn’t look like the type of engine has much of an influence on how long the active additive lasts in the oil. Engines of the exact same type (and in some cases, even the exact same engines) were ranked both high and low in our results, so it looks like individual driving habits and the behavior of each particular engine play a much larger role than engine sizes, model years, manufacturers, or any other criteria we could see.

When you get right down to it, though, the TBN is only one factor in determining whether or not it’s safe to run the oil longer. It’s a valuable tool, but we also have to look at other factors, like wear metals, insolubles, viscosity, and contaminants, any of which could indicate that you shouldn’t run the oil any longer, even if the TBN is still good.

The bottom line is this: the lawyers have to tell you to follow the engine manufacturer’s recommendations, since they have no idea what’s going on with your particular vehicle. And really, the original engine manufacturer doesn’t have much better of an idea—they know how their engines should wear, and base their recommendations on what should work best for most drivers, but they don’t have any idea about your particular driving habits or maintenance routines.

When you get your oil analyzed at Blackstone, we’re looking at the specific conditions for your specific engine, which is why we can tell you if it’s safe to add an extra 2,000 or 3,000 miles on your next fill, regardless of your current OCI. Just check “Yes” next to the question “Are you interested in extended oil use?” on the back of your next oil slip, and maybe you too will be free to explore the world of extended oil use!

By Travis Heffelfinger|2024-09-19T10:05:06-04:002023|Articles, Gas/Diesel Engine, Marine|Comments Off

Does Oil Brand Matter?

No matter who you are or what your oil analysis needs are, you have undoubtedly faced the question on everyone’s mind these days: What type of oil should I use?

Many people have very strong loyalties to certain brands of oil. They’ll swear by their favorite brand and assure you that anything else is bound to ruin your engine. But we’re here to dispel that myth. After nearly 30 years of testing oils from thousands of different engines and industrial machines, we have discovered a shocking fact: it doesn’t really matter what brand of oil you use.

But wait! Before you dismiss us as heretical, listen to what we do recommend. We always suggest using an oil grade recommended for your engine by the manufacturer and a brand that fits your budget. The grade of oil is much more important to performance in your engine than the brand of oil.

In fact, here’s another little secret. The oils you can find at any mass retailer, such as Wal-Mart or Meijer, are actually name-brand oils (such as Valvoline, Shell, or Quaker State), but with the store’s label on it. Think about it. A place like Auto-Zone is not in the business of manufacturing oil. They buy their oil from the big oil companies and put their name on the bottle. The only difference between the Auto-Zone brand and the name-brand oil is the name on the bottle and a few dollars per quart.

We analyze oils from our personal use engines (right down to our lawn mowers) religiously. We tend to choose oils that do not contain additives that can get in the way of elements we want to see in the analysis. For instance, many light, multi-grade oils use sodium as an oil additive. The sodium can mask antifreeze contamination.

If you want to see for yourself which oil is going to perform better in your engine, we recommend a test: run Brand A in your engine for a set number of miles or hours and have a sample analyzed. Then run Brand B in your engine for the same amount of time, and have that oil analyzed. You can compare the results for yourself, side by side, to determine which oil is best for you.

By Jim Stark|2024-09-19T10:31:20-04:002023|Articles, Gas/Diesel Engine, Industrial, Marine|Comments Off

Do I Need to Worry?

Last month we got an email from John, who had some questions about his report. His F250 was showing traces of coolant in the oil, and lead, from bearings, was elevated. He had the engine out of the truck pending repairs and wanted to know: how much lead is too much? Did he need to replace the bearings?

“Do I need to worry?” is a common question, and one there’s not one easy answer for. We’ve had people pull the bearings out of a Corvette when lead was only a few ppm above average and we said in the report, “You don’t need to do anything about this yet.” (For the record, that guy called us and said his bearings looked fine and was kind of honked off about it.)

We’ve had people with metals that are high all along, but not changing, and it never turns into a problem. And we’ve had people not pursue what appeared to be a problem, and regret it in the end (this is especially problematic when the engine is in an airplane).

So how do we decide what’s a problem and what’s not? It would be great if there was a magic number, but there’s not. We assess each engine individually, mainly focusing on these things:

How your sample compares to your trends
How your sample compares to average
The balance of metals to each other
Whether you’re using additives

Trends

If you have them, trends are the most helpful thing we look at in determining your engine’s health. It takes three samples to get a good trend going (though we can often tell if something is amiss earlier than that).

All engines are different, as are their drivers, how they’re used, and where they are in the country. As such, it’s very helpful to sample a few oil changes in a row, at least at first, and have a baseline established for your specific engine. Consistency counts. If your engine is wearing a lot but it’s doing so steadily, it’s possible that the metal isn’t a problem. Problems tend to get worse over time – not remain stagnant.

Figure 1 is a good example where lead (a bearing metal) doesn’t appear to be a problem. That engine has more lead than average, but it’s consistent. Since the owner wasn’t having any problems, our recommendation was to just watch lead as time goes on.

But on the other hand, look at Figure 2. Lead read at just 12 ppm in this sample—that’s well within the average range, but we marked it because lead had always been much lower than this. If this had been his first report, we might have thought lead was okay. But since we know that lead is usually low, we told him the bearings are wearing more than they were and to watch for abnormalities like low oil pressure.

Universal averages

Of course, when you start sampling, you don’t have trends to rely on. So our second line of defense, when we’re looking at your numbers, is universal averages.

We have averages established for most of the engines out there, though we’re always adding to our database as new types of engines (and transmissions and generators and other machinery) are being made all the time. When you do your first sample, we’ll compare your metals to averages for your specific engine.

It’s helpful for us to know what kind of engine you have. Look at Figure 3, for example. This is a comparison between the Toyota 1.8L 1ZZ-FE (used in Corollas and Vibes), and the Oldsmobile 455 (used in older motorhomes and the Cutlass and Trans Am). Toyotas don’t wear much, whereas the Olds 455 makes a lot of metal.

If we don’t know what kind of engine you have, we might end up comparing your numbers to the wrong set of averages, or just a generic engine file. We can still tell if something is way out of line, but the more subtle differences between your engine and averages are harder to see.

Along those same lines, some vehicles come with many different engine options, so just telling us the year, make, and model of your vehicle isn’t always enough. The 2006 Silverado, for example, could have one of five different gas engines or the 6.6L diesel engine in it. We have different averages for each of those engine types. Take a look at Figure 4. The metals are similar in those engines, but they’re different enough to matter when we’re determining if something is too high or not.

Generally speaking, we’ll mark a metal in bold when it’s twice average or more. But not always—there are also times when we don’t mark elevated metals, if we know something else is going on.

We test a fleet of armored Sprinter vans that operate in New York City, for example. The vehicles are loaded up with armor and spend their entire lives idling and driving in unforgiving traffic conditions. It’s no surprise that the engines wear more than average. (See Figure 5.)

Balance of metals

We also look at the balance of metals relative to each other. In Figure 6, lead is not reading twice average but we marked it anyway. According to averages, lead and iron should be at about a 1:1 ratio. In this sample, the lead: iron ratio is more like 4:1. This balance tells us the bearings are wearing more than the rest of the engine, and that can be a sign of trouble too.

Additives

Another factor to consider is the use of additives and/or leaded fuel. Lots of people use Restore, which has copper and lead in it, and although in that form those elements aren’t harmful, they do make your numbers read high.

Likewise, if you’re using leaded fuel, racing fuel or certain octane boosters, fuel blow-by will cause high lead readings. The highest lead reading we’ve seen in any BMW S65 engine was 1055 ppm. The rest of the metals looked great, though, and the customer had mentioned using an additive, so we were pretty sure the lead in his sample wasn’t a sign of an impending bearing failure.

How much metal is too much?

So how much metal is too much? In truth that number is different for every engine. You already know that we take a lot of things into account in trying to answer that question. Usually we’ll call you to get more information if we’re not sure, and we’ll suggest giving it an oil change or two to see how trends shake out. If something is seriously out of line we can usually tell, even if we don’t know your engine type or how you use it.

We will say this, though: it’s pretty rare for a major mechanical problem to happen unexpectedly overnight. Most engines will give at least some warning before things go south, and that’s why you do analysis. Follow the trends to see what’s normal for your engine, and when deviations occur, you’re informed enough to make a good decision.

By Kristin Huff|2024-09-19T10:07:41-04:002023|Articles, Gas/Diesel Engine, Marine|Comments Off

Antifreeze: The Silent Killer

After analyzing engine oil for 30 years, I can safely say the thing that kills more engines than any other is antifreeze seeping into the oil. We call it the “silent killer” since there is normally no indication this dreadful contaminant is about to strike until after the damage is done. Neither you nor your mechanic can see it in the oil. The dealer won’t know it’s there.

We like to say engines speak before they fail, but in this case, you aren’t likely to hear much of anything until you hear just about the worst sound an engine can make. Oil analysis is the only way of knowing this sneaky killer is closing in on you. We can see it in the oil at a trace level, long before any harm is done.

We call people daily to let them know anti-freeze contamination is about to ruin their day. A typical reaction is, “What? That engine is running fine!” And they are right—the engine will, in most instances, run perfectly well until a bearing spins, oil pressure drops, and the engine destructs to the point of no salvation.

Some engine configurations are more susceptible to the problem than others: V-6s and V-8s for instance, are perhaps more prone than other engines. But no engine is immune (except air-cooled engines!). One would think that after 100 years of building engines, the automakers would get it right. To my knowledge no one has.

The problem with design

The engineers who design engines do a marvelous job of building lighter, more efficient and faster engines. But for every step forward in the process, there are compromises.

Building lighter engines necessitates working with new alloys for the various parts that are bolted together. Gaskets are used to seal between the parts. To get an engine perfectly right, they have to use parts that expand and contract with heat at the same rate, and gaskets that are hardy enough to seal well even after they age and suffer millions of heat cycles. You can imagine the engineers tossing in their sleep while wrestling with this dilemma.

A classic example of the problem was a Jaguar in-line 6-cylinder engine I once owned. I loved that engine with its long, high-end torque curve and mellow growl. It was probably the first duel overhead cam design that managed quiet chains in the days before belts were used. But for all its wonderful assets, there was this one drawback: they used an aluminum alloy head on a cast iron block. If you managed 50,000 miles on a head gasket, you were a very fortunate person.

With an in-line design, the anti-freeze contamination usually develops at the head gasket. With the V-designs, a more common source of the problem is intake manifold gaskets.

The manifold gasket supports the air/fuel system mechanism and straddles (and is bolted to) the heads. You can imagine the complexity of the problem of heat cycles. Block expansion forces the heads up and away from the crankshaft. The lowly intake manifold is not in a position to move in concert with the expansion. It would be like trying to ride two horses standing on the two saddles.

The result of this set-up is that intake manifold gaskets fail. Antifreeze starts seeping into the oil. It often takes quite a long while before the problem manifests itself in a failure, but it can also happen quickly. Since there are usually no obvious symptoms of the problem, the unwary engine owner usually drives the engine to oblivion.

Another common question we hear is, “How long until it fails?” Unfortunately, it’s impossible to predict how long an engine with an antifreeze problem will last. Many variables factor into the equation: the type of engine, how it’s driven, the environment it’s operated in, and—the most unpredictable of all—Lady Luck. Some people can limp along for ages with a slight trace of coolant that never turns into anything serious. Others turn up a trace and then WHAM! Faster than you can say “spun bearing” the engine fails.

Don’t quote me on this, but if I had to estimate the severity of the problem in car and truck engines today—judging from our oil samples—I would suggest 1–2 % of the cars and trucks in the road today are in the process of failing from antifreeze contamination of the oil. Fortunately, most antifreeze problems can be detected early with oil analysis, and in most cases we can save the engine before a failure. We would like to save all of them. But we can’t save anything until see the oil from it.

By Jim Stark|2024-09-19T10:09:24-04:002023|Articles, Gas/Diesel Engine, Marine|Comments Off